Question 1

How long does cabinet painting take?

Accepted Answer

Most full-kitchen cabinet painting projects take 3–5 working days from removal to reinstall, depending on cabinet count, condition, and product cure times. Off-site spray work runs in parallel, so your kitchen is typically only without doors and drawer fronts for 2–4 days. Some 2K polyurethane systems cure faster than waterborne alkyds, which can shorten the timeline. Your project manager gives you a precise day-by-day schedule during the estimate, including when you can begin lightly using the kitchen and when the finish is fully cured for normal heavy use.

Question 2

Do you remove the doors and drawers, or paint them in place?

Accepted Answer

We remove and label every door and drawer front and spray them in a controlled environment, either off-site at a dedicated spray booth or in a sealed on-site spray area. Painting doors in place produces a visibly rougher finish, leaves brush and roller texture, and almost always results in tape lines and overspray on countertops or appliances. The cabinet boxes (the fixed frames) are masked, prepped, and sprayed in place, but the doors and drawer fronts always come off. This is the single biggest difference between professional cabinet work and DIY cabinet painting.

Question 3

Spray vs. brush, does it really matter?

Accepted Answer

Yes, more than for any other paint service. A sprayed cabinet door has a smooth, uniform, factory-style finish that buyers and appraisers associate with quality. A brushed or rolled cabinet door has visible texture, brush marks, and roller stipple that immediately read as DIY work. Spraying also produces thinner, more even coats that cure harder and last longer. Professional cabinet painters spray for the same reason cabinet manufacturers spray, it's the only way to get a true cabinet-grade finish. Brushed cabinet work is acceptable on rustic or distressed styles where texture is intentional, but not for modern or transitional kitchens.

Question 4

Do you paint the interiors of the cabinets?

Accepted Answer

By default, no, cabinet interiors are typically left as-is unless you specifically request otherwise. Painting interiors significantly increases project cost and time, and the interior surfaces aren't visible when the doors are closed. That said, we will paint interiors when you have glass-front doors, open shelving sections, or simply want a fully unified look. Your project manager will walk you through the cost difference at the estimate so you can decide. Most clients choose to paint only the visible surfaces, boxes, face frames, doors, and drawer fronts, and leave interior shelves untouched.

Question 5

What are the best cabinet colors for resale?

Accepted Answer

National buyer-preference research consistently puts crisp whites and warm off-whites at the top for resale appeal, they brighten the kitchen, make the space feel larger, and pair with any countertop and backsplash. Soft greys and warm beiges follow closely. Deep navies and charcoals have become extremely popular in current kitchen design, especially on islands and lower cabinets in two-tone layouts. Bold or unusual colors (bright reds, purples, deep oranges) almost always hurt resale, even when beautifully executed. If resale is a near-term priority, a neutral upper with an optional darker island is the safest move.

Question 6

How long before I can use my cabinets after painting?

Accepted Answer

Cabinets are typically light-use ready 24–48 hours after reinstallation, but full cure on a waterborne alkyd or urethane enamel takes 21–30 days. During that cure window, the finish is dry to the touch and usable, but more vulnerable to dings, scuffs, and chemical damage than it will be once fully cured. We recommend handling doors gently, avoiding heavy stacking on shelves, and keeping cleaning to a soft cloth and water for the first 30 days. After full cure, painted cabinets handle normal kitchen use, including spills and routine cleaning, without issue.

Question 7

Will painted cabinets chip or peel?

Accepted Answer

When properly executed, degreased, sanded, primed with a cabinet-grade bonding primer, sprayed with a cabinet-rated enamel, and given full cure time, painted cabinets are very durable and should not chip or peel under normal kitchen use. The chipping and peeling people associate with painted cabinets almost always traces back to skipped prep, the wrong paint product (wall paint instead of cabinet enamel), brushed application without proper sanding between coats, or putting cabinets back into heavy use before the finish has cured. With the right product and proper process, painted cabinets routinely last 10+ years before needing a refresh.

Question 8

How does cabinet painting compare to refacing or replacement?

Accepted Answer

Cabinet painting is by far the most cost-effective option of the three. National pricing typically runs $1,500–$6,500 for cabinet painting, $4,000–$10,000 for cabinet refacing (replacing doors and veneering boxes), and $8,000–$25,000+ for full cabinet replacement. Painting works when your existing boxes are structurally sound and the layout works for you, which is true for most kitchens. Refacing makes sense when you want a different door style. Replacement is only worth the investment when boxes are damaged, the layout needs to change, or you're doing a full kitchen remodel.

Question 9

Can oak, laminate, or thermofoil cabinets be painted?

Accepted Answer

Oak: yes, but the prominent grain will telegraph through unless it's filled with a grain filler before priming, a meaningful additional step. Laminate: yes, with a proper bonding primer specifically designed for non-porous surfaces; results are excellent when the right primer and enamel system are used. Thermofoil: only if the foil is fully intact and bonded, peeling thermofoil must be repaired or replaced before painting, and we don't recommend painting over actively delaminating thermofoil. Your project manager will inspect your specific cabinets at the estimate and tell you honestly whether they're a good candidate for painting.

Question 10

Do you paint the inside of drawer boxes?

Accepted Answer

Generally no, drawer boxes themselves are usually left unpainted. We paint the drawer fronts (the visible face) but leave the interior box surfaces alone. The reasons are practical: drawer interiors take heavy abrasion from utensils and contents, paint inside drawers often peels or sticks to items, and most homeowners line drawer bottoms anyway. If you specifically want drawer interiors painted (for example, if you're doing open shelving or want a fully uniform look), we can discuss the option and the additional cost during the estimate. The default scope covers everything visible when drawers are closed.

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